Although most people think that Champagne wines are made solely from three main grape varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier), that’s not quite true! Four other varieties are also authorised within the AOC area and are used to make some: Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris.
They may only account for 0.3% of the area under vine, but their unique characteristics make them altogether worthy of attention. These old varietals offer new possibilities for Champagne wines in terms of taste and, as such, there is renewed interest in them, after a spell when they fell out of fashion for their somewhat fickle nature.
Arbane: this unsung, intriguing variety ripens late and is difficult to work with as it is not very resistant in bad weather and has proven difficult to press. That said, it produces a Champagne with altogether exquisite finesse. It brings floral (hawthorn blossom and carnation) and fruity (vine peach, apple and quince) notes alike.
Petit Meslier: this variety grows in small clusters with small grapes. It is not very hardy, its crop yields are low and it is highly susceptible to disease. It graces Champagne with a smoky bouquet that continues on the palate, as well as citrus notes.
Pinot Gris: this is a close relation of Pinot Noir. Low in acidity, it instils wines with such strong smoky, nutty notes... that, in Champagne, it is nicknamed "Enfumé" (which means ‘filled with smoke’).
Pinot Blanc: this is also a member of the Pinot family and a variant of Pinot Gris (and therefore Pinot Noir!). It is more consistent to work with than Pinot Gris and ripens faster than Pinot Noir. Wines made with this grape variety are punchy and full-bodied.
